Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
